Dye Essentials- Industry Knowledge Blog Series
Welcome to our Industry Knowledge blog! A blog series that helps demystify industry practices and help you get a better understanding of how to handle them. This week we are talking about dyes! Dyes date back to the very beginning of human technology; from the beginning of time, we have been fascinated with the idea of adorning ourselves with bright vibrant textiles. Color has long been a crucial element in capturing mood and identity in design, often expressing what silhouette and material alone cannot. Yet, behind those stunning textiles lies a vast universe of science and innovation. Today we’ll be diving into some of the main types of dyes and what you should consider when picking them for your next project!
Natural Dyes
Natural dyes have been used since the Neolithic period, representing some of the earliest human dye technologies. Natural dyes, as implied by their name, are dyes obtained from natural sources of plants and animals. They vary from everyday items such as turmeric and onion skins to more intricate methods like indigo. Historically, the availability of certain colors were restricted to specific regions due to the reliance on local flora and fauna. Many of them were also derived from very labor-intensive processes, increasing the price of the textile immensely and making it hard for anyone within the lower or working classes to acquire certain colors of textiles. This is one of the reasons we so heavily associate some colors with royalty, as they were generally the only class of people that could afford them.
A 3000-year-old fragment of dyed Tyrian Purple (derived from Murex snails), A fragment of a rare 3,800-year-old textile, dyed with the Kermes vermilio insect. Images by Dafna Gazit, Israel Antiquities Authority, via The Times of Israel
Today these dyes are still semi-common practice, especially within more eco-friendly and DIY spaces. Modern technology has made the production of natural dyes both affordable and efficient on a large scale, ensuring they remain a valuable resource for contemporary textile dyeing. Carmine, for instance, a dye obtained from the cochineal insect, is still widely used in various cosmetics and foods. Initially utilized by the Aztecs, it continues to be one of the finest pigments for eyeshadows and lipsticks.
The primary advantage of using natural dyes today is that they generally do not require harsh chemicals. They come from natural, biodegradable sources that do not have a severe negative impact on the environment. Many natural dyes offer vibrancy and durability comparable to synthetic dyes, making them an excellent alternative for brands prioritizing eco-friendliness. Additionally you are still able to achieve a large range of colors and it can be done on a larger scale through a business like Green Matters Natural Dye Company
However, they do not come without their own set of restrictions. Natural dyes can only be used on natural fibers, meaning that they won’t work on anything synthetic like polyester. It also requires the use of a mordant, a chemical that helps open the natural fibers and bind the pigment to them. As previously noted, many natural dyes possess excellent wearability, but this is not the case for all. Some may be susceptible to sunlight, washing, and general wear. Additionally, many pigments are inherently pale, which limits the possibility of achieving vibrant shades in every color. These drawbacks can frequently result in inconsistencies within a dye bath, which, when combined with rarity and farming challenges, can make production quite costly.
Color swatches from Green Matters Natural Dye Company
Synthetic Dyes
Synthetic dyes refer to any dyes that are man-made and cannot be derived from an exclusively natural source. Invented in the early 20th century synthetic dyes were created to circumvent a lot of the previously mentioned downsides that can often occur with natural dyes. With synthetics, you can achieve a wider range of colors, longer wear, and some can be used on poly fibers as well. They can be broken up into a few categories and each have their own strengths and weaknesses based on their intended use. Some dyes are ideal for particular fabrics or direct applications, while others are best suited for specific colors. Each treatment is created with a specific purpose in mind, making it easy to narrow down what you are looking for by your textile needs.
The main positive of using synthetic dyes is their superior stability and consistency in lightfastness and colorfastness. They prove to wear much better in the long term than natural dyes and do not require specific instructions to maintain. Synthetics can also be produced on a much larger scale, allowing them to grow with your company as you scale up production. There is more freedom with colors as well, allowing for more customization and the inclusion of vibrant hues. Additionally, synthetic dyes tend to be more cost-effective, particularly in bulk, as they generally require fewer tests and resources. They also offer greater versatility across different textiles, with a suitable dye available for virtually every type of fabric. Overall, synthetic dyes provide more flexibility than natural dyes.
On the other hand, most synthetic dyes are not environmentally friendly. They often contain harsh chemicals that are difficult to dispose of and are typically non-biodegradable. These toxic dyes can adversely affect local aquatic wildlife and are a major source of environmental textile pollution. Additionally, synthetic dyes can trigger allergic reactions, and some may be carcinogenic, necessitating stringent safety and production standards.
We hope you found this brief guide helpful in painting the main differences you should consider when choosing textile dyes. If you would like a more in-depth guide Guided Makers has assembled a chart detailing various synthetic and natural dyes, comparing important information you should consider when selecting a specific dye. This chart goes over different types of natural and synthetic dyes, cost, color longevity, and more!
Download our Natural and Synthetic Dye Table Here!